Garage door

This page will deal with the garage door, but then I imagine you expected that.

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Behold the loveliness which is my new garage door! It is going to need a bit of work, but it was really cheap.

Transportation was interesting. I put it on the roof rack of my Fiat Doblo van, it only overhung a little, but it was still a bit scary getting overaken by trucks on the motorway as despite it being tied on securely it did flap about a bit.

I had planned to get a 10 foot wide garage door and had left a gap at the front of the brickwork of 3.15m to allow for a door and frame. Then this came up on e-bay, at 3.18 metres wide there's one obvious problem, but that can be addressed and I'll cover that aspect on the 'walls to dpc' page.

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This page is more to deal with the matters of the door itself.

I had asked the seller, having looked at the pictures "Is there any damage, or is it just dirty", "It's just dirty" he said, yeah right!

This is a closer look at that "dirty mark" on the top right of the door. I think its been a little too close to a fire at some point in it's life. It is a fibreglass door though, so it's repairable. I'll grind that down and use a bit of car body filler to patch it up, that should do the job.

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The bigger problem is the frame. The door has a wooden frame embedded within it and at some point during its original removal and storage the corner was broken. This allowed moisture to get in and the wooden frame has rotted.

You can see in the picture where the edge has seperated. What you can't really see is the wood mush that's in there that used to be the frame.

Again its repairable though. I'll need to cut open the back of the door, replace the rotten bits of frame and then fibreglass it all back together again.

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These are the bits and pieces of the mechanism (plus there's a lock and some rollers not pictured).

They've been sitting outside with the door, so they've difinitely seen better days too.

They are all available as replacement spares, for a price. The cost of replacement is almost £800, about the same as a brand new entire door, a wire brush, a few nuts bolts and washers, and a bit of paint, is going to be a lot less than that.

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A closer view of the arms.

I get the feeling I'm going to have to cut those bolts off.

 

Next time, on "The Garage Door Restoration Show"............. lots of wire brushing, grinding.... and probably some swearing if I'm honest.

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I still had my saved search for local garage doors in e-bay and came across this listed for auction. It had already ended once without any bids, and when it was re-listed and still had no bids with only a few minutes to go I thought it would be worth a shot at a starting bid of £4.99

Nobody else bid and so I went along in the van to collect it and hand over the fiver required to purchase it. There is a bit of a dent in one panel, but that should be repairable, and overall it is in a lot better condition than the other one.

I've got a choice of doors now as they are both roughly the same size.

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Looking at both the doors, I decided to use the sectional one.

I laid the sections out and removed some of the dents before giving the surface a good clean. This was then followed by a coat of exterior gloss paint.

The picture shows the door sections racked up for the paint to harden. Also in the picture are the sides of the door frame. These were made from one of the timbers I had for floor joists, given a going over with a belt sander and then hand sanded and undercoated.

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Having changed my mind about the size of the door opening between pouring the slab and building the walls there is now a gap that will need to be dealt with.

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When I ordered the fascias and soffits I also got a length of 300mm wide plain board.

I used a couple of 9" lengths of this to cover the hole in the floor. The garage door frame will sit on top of these.

I will mastic around this once the door is in place to seal it and prevent water getting under it.

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Checking the door track components it looked as though the door would fit within the opening so I started by adding the wooden side frames which will make up for the door being slightly narrower than the opening and which will support the track.

 

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These were fitted within the frame and set back against the cavity to leave a reveal around the brickwork.

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I then bolted the track to these and having done both sides was able to locate the door panels.

The top horizontal sections of the track were fitted and hung from the roof trusses with strips of steel.

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Unfortunately when it came time to fit the roller and spring mechanism it became clear that that this would not fit under the lintel in the location I planned and still leave room for the door to open.

So it was all taken out and the frame moved back in the opening to allow the door to sit behind it.

The angled brackets were replaced with some lengths of steel cut from the two restraint straps which I had left over.

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Moving the wooden frame back obviously left the cavity and the front edge of the blockwork exposed.

To remedy this I attached a piece of fascia board to the timber before fixing it to the wall.

The front edge of this was in the same location that the front edge of the timber was before so the brickwork reveal is the same as originally planned.

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With the door inside the opening I was able to fit the bar with the springs and rollers above the track and this allowed clearance (just) for the door to open.

You can also see here the two pieces of 3x2 timber used to close the gap at the top, the bottom one is painted white as it will be seen, the top one will be covered on the outside so doesn't need painting.

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Having installed the door I attempted to tension the spring. When I did it with enough tension that the door was easy to lift it would slip on the spring holder. This did not retain the end of the spring but simply fitted inside it with a groove to locate it and the spring was riding over the grooves and loosening.

I made a piece to catch the end of the spring coil and that seemed to fix it, however, the next morning the end of the spring had slid over that too and the tension was gone again. I've now left it with less tension, the door is heavier to lift, but the spring seems to be staying in place at the moment.

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Back outside and the frame is complete and the door is in place.

I replaced the lock cylinder (as I didn't have the key) and cleaned, greased, and adjusted the locking mechanism and cables, making sure everything moved smoothly.

Just some trimming to finish outside now, and I'll add a picture of the horizontal rails soon.